Children

The children in Senegal were amazing. So many beautiful faces, so much hope in their eyes. They were all so excited to see us, to touch us, to follow our movements and watch us.

I spent some time last night with some African friends at their house. We talked a lot about the children, and how the key to change the poverty in Senegal (and in other parts of Africa) is to educate the children. A new friend, Samba, told me that he feels that for those who are living here, it is a terrible injustice for them not to bring their children to the United States to educate them. He sees that the only hope is to begin to educate the children so that they can learn to break the cycle of poverty. But then, the more we bring children here, the more they become American, and not African. They give up their culture to have a chance at a better life.

Processing the trip, 3 days later

I haven't gone through many of our photos yet. Still recovering from jet lag, catching up on stuff around here, and letting my brain process everything that we saw and experienced. My computer hard drive is slow and should have been upgraded before our trip; now I have come home with 700 pictures (plus Zach's) and my computer is even slower. So I am taking it as a sign that I need to just take a little time to let everything process. The pictures will be there, and I will be able to sort through them when my brain is a little less tired.

In the meantime, I am beginning to think about everything that the trip meant. Zach and I were given several African outfits, and as I wash and fold and even iron them (so they can be stored nicely folded, as they were given to us), I have to say that I feel a little sad. These beautiful outfits with their bright colors and happy patterns are so much not a part of our reality here. We live in a world that is so much busier, so serious. As I put these clothes away, I feel like I am putting away a very special piece of our lives. I want to make sure that it is not too inaccessible, and that I can pull it out again. Or even, I guess, not put it away at all.

Also experiencing a bit of reverse culture shock of sorts. Went to Sunflower Market today and was marveling at the bounty and the variety that is at our fingertips. We live in a world in which we are seconds between desire and satisfaction. (Those yogurt covered pretzels look good? Buy them! Kiwi from Hawaii? No problem! Organic packaged mac and cheese? Oh good, and it is even on sale!!) I walked through the aisles a bit daunted by all that is available to us. In the checkout lane as I prepared to mindlessly spend $50 on groceries, I saw a sign for charity:water (1 in 6 people in the world don't have access to clean water). Struck me as so odd that we can so carelessly spend money on our own frivolities when so many people don't even have what they need to live in anywhere near the comfort that we enjoy so casually. Clean water? In Ndindory, every last bit of water that they need in the village -- even for the cattle and sheep and goats -- must be pulled from a well. The wells are 30 meters deep, and in the dry season they have to pull from even deeper. When we were in Ndindory, I marvelled at the depth of the well. The men who were with me laughed...they said, "Suzanne, you think this is interesting. For us, this is our life. We don't know any other life other than the life of pulling water."

So the picture on this post is of a boy in Ndindory. He is proud of his very first ever crayon picture. The kids in this village had never before seen crayons.

Back in Denver

Zach and I are back in Denver! It is 5 a.m. and we have both been up for a couple hours already despite our efforts to sleep in "late". It will take us a while to get back on the right schedule.

The trip back was long but largely uneventful. It was fantastic to see Todd and Alyssa and to be able to hold Alyssa in my arms again.

The overall feeling for me from the trip is a sense of awe and amazement at the incredible love and generosity given to us during the trip. The Fulani people welcomed us with open arms, took care of our every need, and treated us with incredible generosity. They were kind and caring and embraced us fully. In each village we visited, we were given complete outfits (you should see the pictures of our group all decked out in the clothes they gave us). They provided our meals and welcomed us into their families. It truly was an experience that is beyond anything I ever expected.

We were also warmly hosted and cared for by some Methodist missionaries in Dakar. We used their vehicle and chauffeur, and prior to the trip took all our meals in their space. At the tail end of the trip, we showered at their house and used their computer. A few of us walked down to the beach for a last little bit of time and had some of the most magical moments of the trip as we watched hundreds of people walk and do exercises and play soccer in the sand. Zach brought a bag full of sand back with him - one last fleeting bit of Senegal to keep.

I'll post pics later today. Believe it or not, I think it is time to get Zach going on homework, so he can use his really awake hours to get something done. He will stay home from school today, with all hopes of getting him back on track tomorrow.

Thanks for all your support. I'll keep posting now that I am back on the computer so that you can learn more about the trip.

Latest from the Senegalese backcountry

I just received this is an email from Susan:

Hi all,It is 5 pm on Wednesday Senegal time and I am on a computer that is getting wireless via a telephone that gets its connection via a satellite. We are sitting in the middle of a courtyard, in a big, shaded porch, lounging on mats and mattresses. I am sure I have very little time on the computer so will write as fast as I can and count that as an update to all of you. Zach and I are doing great.

We are hot but are slowly becoming African, it seems. Our meals are communal, all sharing off of the same plate. Today the vehicle we were in was surprisingly full of people; when Zach asked why, I told him I thought it was because we were becoming African!! We are both wearing African clothes, and we have learned very much about the ways of the people in Senegal. I think you will not be surprised if, when we see you, we give a long speech that is full of words about how much we respect you and value your family!!

Zach and I had a big adventure yesterday and today because we left the group to go to Mamadou's village, Ndindoury, which is about a 2 hour drive from Doumgo Oura Alpha. The road was not very good for most of the journey, and we were in Oumar's private car going down there, chauffered by a cousin of his who spoke not a word of French. We arrived to a huge welcoming (as all of the welcomings have been) with drums and children running alongside the car. We arrived at Mamadou's family home in the village and were welcomed with dancers, story tellers, and just about everyone in the village at some point during the evening.

The experience was truthfully a bit overwhelming - we were totally immersed in Fulani culture without our "secret service agents" as we call them....our African friends and some university students from Dakar who have been helping us on our journey and buffering us from the population. In Ndindoury, it was a constant flow of people coming to greet us and only one person was really able to speak French to me. We gave the children crayons and watched them color (it was the first time they have ever seen crayons) and after dark made some glow stick lanterns that were a gigantic hit.

Zach actually got more time to read there then elsewhere on our trip because we weren't making official visits while we were there -- we did a quick trip to the school and to the clinic, but nothing like the multitude of visits we have done with the larger group. Zach was able to "escape" a little bit and let me interfacewith the population. By nightfall, I was exhausted!!! Today they gave us incredibly generous gifts of two sets of fabric, peanuts, and some local plants, a huge gift from such a poor family.

A car from Ndindoury brought us back to meet up with the rest of the group, where it felt like home in a way that we wouldn't have imagined. Oumar's wife, Miriam, took me to a tailor to have one set of the fabric made into a dress. It is amazing the finery of the clothing here - in the midst of such heat and dirt, there is a huge emphasis on dressing well.

We have seen a variety of homes. Where we are now, in Oumar's home, feels like a palace. There are beds in some of the rooms and running water. The bathrooms are clean. But we have also seen very different conditions, and many of them are not so good. All I can say is that Zach is the biggest trooper in the world. He gets the hero award 100 times!I gotta go but I wish I could write more!!!

Traveling to the Villages

Susan and Zach called yesterday (Sunday Nov. 8). It was about 8 p.m. in Senegal. They are doing well, staying healthy, and immersing in the local culture. They are taking tons of photos to share and put together into a slideshow when they return.

Their group was in Hoorefonde Village for their third night. This village is home to Aliou Ba, one of the West Africans from Summit County that are part of the cultural exchange trip.

Susan said they are being treated like dignitaries. Apparently they were welcomed by the entire village and got to meet with the village chief. The women wear beautiful fabrics. The kids have swarmed around Zach to the point some of the men have volunteered to help keep the kids back (Susan said it was like President Obama's secret service detail) when they are walking around.

It is extremely hot where they are - their entire group has been sleeping on the roof of a building rather than indoors. Zach has been conducting his water quality tests for his science fair project. They met with the man in the village who is in charge of the water treatment system - sounds like Zach had a great real-world experience with his studies.

Today they are traveling to Doumga Ouro Alpha Village, home of Oumar - the other West African from Summit County on the trip. Susan and Zach will then travel on Tuesday to her friend Mamadou's village and stay the night. Oumar has internet service at his village, so we may get lucky and get a post from Susan.

Alyssa and I had our own little tropical experience yesterday, though not nearly as hot or culturally rich as S&Z are having. I'll keep you wondering what we did.

--Todd

Dakar markets and Gore Island, Wednesday November 4

Todd here to post the latest update. Received the following email from Susan Wednesday afternoon (Wed evening in Dakar):

Just skyped with Zach's class. Very fun. We got to talk for about 20 minutes and the kids asked all sorts of great questions.

Things are going really well. We were at Gore Island today where they traded slaves. Very good tour with tons of info. We learned a lot - unfortunately a difficult topic, but worth learning about. We also did some shopping and Zach got to experience the throngs of vendors coming up to us, surrounding the van and us, being very pushy about selling us stuff. We have experienced the big markets where people who live here buy everything, and also an artisanal market with just arts and crafts and things like that.

Driving around the city is interesting - it ranges from dirt roads with more people walking than driving, to paved roads heading into the downtown area that are more crowded than any you have ever seen, with cars going in all sorts of odd directions. Yesterday we went down to the coast and played in the ocean a little bit. There are hundreds of little huts on the beach that people rent out and sit under during the day. Also, unfortunately, there is trash everywhere. Oh well.

Zach is doing great. He was still very tired this morning (imagine being waken at what feels like 1 in the morning!!) but he rallied during the day and seems to be doing really well now. The ladies who are feeding us were concerned about Zach yesterday because he didn't eat much, but now I think between him feeling less tired and getting used to the african food, he seems to be doing much better!

Tomorrow we are off to a game reserve and then to St. Louis, a city up the coast. One night there and then off to the villages. We are not sure how much access we will have to internet in the villages but will see.

End of Susan's email.

Here in Denver, Alyssa and I are settling into our routine. A local restaurant was holding a fundraiser for Alyssa's school and we went out for pizza last night. Alyssa got to play with a grapefruit-sized piece of dough while we were waiting for our meal. Grandma Bridges came over to the house after dinner to watch Alyssa while I went to the Denver Public Schools' middle school expo. In terms of crowds, not too much different than being on the streets of Dakar, just no dirt roads and heat to contend with!!

--Todd

In Dakar

It should be 4 in the morning for us but it is 11 a.m. instead. I am giving Zach some time to relax because he is tired. Our hotel is very simple with foam mattress bed and a shower with no apparent nozzle but still a trickle of water. This computer is very old and slow and has a french keyboard. I can speak french but cant type it. Just outside our door are women with babies on back and eggs on head. Horsedrawn wagon with kid selling salt. Kids with no shoes. beautiful fqbrics on the women. No seatbelts in cars but no need because we are in africa (their words). Mostly cinderblock buildings and many in abandoned construction phase. Mostly dirt roads. Customs was easy and everyone is very friendly. Typing very slow. Love being in Africa again and wonder if it is all too overwhelming for Zach on 2 hours of sleep. But so far so good. More later when I can.

Ready for Dakar

We are onboard South African Airways anticipating departure. They just handed out socks and toothbrushes, which gave Zach a good giggle.

Sadly, we just found out that a friend of Zach's, Jake, lost his dad last night. Our hearts are heavy because of this. Also we send our well wishes to Tim Tajchman right now as he fights his own battle with cancer. We send our love to both families.

The flight is 7+ hours. We will be tired when we get there!

Zach says: This jet is really cool (giggle giggle). One row has 2 seats on each side and 4 seats in the middle. Sadly tomorrow is the day when I take my malaria pill - it tastes really bad.

Zach was also excited about the "mobile lounge" that took us from one concourse to the other.

Thanks again to everyone for all the support for this trip.

This will be our last mobile post until we are back in US. We'll update via computers as possible and via communications with Todd.

Alyssa, how is Stewart??!!

Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

Baggage

We checked 10 bags. This included 4 Project Cure kits loaded with medical supplies and one bag loaded with school supplies and toothbrushes. It looks like we all brought lots of granola bars, too!!

Last moments with Alyssa

We are at the airport. Alyssa is such a brave kid for watching us go. We will miss her and Todd! There are 6 of us travelling together today. We will arrive in D.C. At about 3:30 and then in Dakar at about 7:00 tomorrow morning.

12 hours to go...

We are in the final moments before our departure. We'll leave for the airport in the morning at about 6:30 a.m. I am excited and sad, all at once. Excited for the trip, sad that I will go for 2 weeks without seeing Alyssa and Todd. Alyssa and I have cried together about our upcoming time apart, but she is a brave and wonderful kid, and her time with her dad will be very special. I think this will be an adventure for all of us.

I took Alyssa over with me today to see my friend Mamadou before the departure. Mamadou came all the way down from Avon to say goodbye. We will be seeing his family in Ndindory in Senegal on November 10. While we were seeing Mamadou, I also say another friend, Binta, who gave me some things to carry home for her family in Oura Alpha. It was such a wonderful moment - they were all so happy to know that we would be traveling to their villages. They were full of love and happiness and it was such a great moment. Mamadou picked up Alyssa and carried her outside in his arms and Alyssa held her arms around Mamadou, and I thought to myself, what a wonderful thing it is to have my kids exposed to people from other parts of the world.

The picture that I posted here is not from today - it is an older picture of Alyssa and Mamadou. But I didn't have the wherewithall to take pics today, and so thought this one would be good.

So a little bit about Mamadou. He has two wives (very common in Senegal) and 8 children. He couldn't tell me the ages of his kids - that is not as important in his culture. His mother is still living, but I think must be very, very old.

My mom brought chicken noodle soup over for dinner tonight, a welcome treat considering all the last minute stuff this evening. Finally, though, everything is ready.

Zach and I will blog as much as possible on the trip. We found out it wouldn't be quite as easy as we had hoped thanks to a little communication snafu with AT&T, but we will do our best.

Stay healthy!!!